You may remember a clip I did sitting in my American cousin Morgan’s back yard comparing the Yquem 96 to the 97. Straight off the flight, with senses dulled by the jet-lag, this 97 woke me up like a strong coffee. It had all the fat mouthfeel of the vintage, yet all the finesse, “nervosity” and delicious acid balance that sometimes only Yquem can deliver. It was a great moment and, I have to confess, I have repeated it several times (very successfully) since. This is one of the great Yquems of the last 20 years: full and rich yet beautifully poised and delicate. Totally impossible to put into words and if you have the cash, worth every penny, now that post-2000 Yquems are all twice the price. Bill Blatch

NB Stock lying in Bordeaux - please allow up to 4 weeks for delivery